Heat Bulbs & Lamps - Farm & Livestock | QC Supply

Shop for Poultry Heat Lamps and other chicken products for your cattle or farm animals
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Heat lamps are made with ceramic and/or metal pieces and fixtures. Other materials, such as plastic, can easily melt. For animal purposes and often in lower, accessible public places, heat lamps may be covered with wire for protection.
Jan 25, 2013 - Posts about heat lamps written by Conscious Companion™ ..
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Infrared heat lamps use low amounts of energy, have the ability to heat quickly, and are reasonably priced. The effects of infrared radiation on humans are normally only of a purely thermal nature, meaning that they can warm you up. There are two types of infrared heat lamps: Whe these rays trike an animal, heat energy is absorbed. using this radiant heat principle, lamps mounted at the proper height Light Bulbs & Heat Lamps.
Photo provided by FlickrAbove all these uses, heat lamps are extremely well known as a means to care for animals, especially during the colder seasons
Photo provided by FlickrOur selection of heat bulbs and lamps includes products from Scorpion III, Phillips, Retroliter and Sylvania
Photo provided by Flickr
Two groups of chickens (Gallus domesticus; White Leghorn; age, 4 d and 2 wk) housed in a university research vivarium were found dead or moribund without prior signs of illness. The overall mortality rates were 92.3% (60 of 65 birds) for the 4-d-old birds and 80% (8 of 10) for the 2-wk-old birds. All chicks were housed in brooders with heat lamps in a temperature- and humidity-controlled room. Primary gross findings were mild to moderate dehydration and hepatic lipidosis. The most consistent histologic findings were pulmonary hemorrhage and edema in all 7 of the 4-d-old birds evaluated and in all 4 of the 2-wk-old birds assessed. In addition, 1 of the 4-d-old birds had multifocal centrilobular hepatic necrosis. These findings suggested an inhaled toxicant and hypoxia, respectively. Inspection of the animal room revealed that approximately 50% of the heat lamp bulbs in the brooder cage were coated with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). Two published case reports detail similar experiences in birds exposed to PTFE-coated heat-lamp bulbs. Birds are highly sensitive to inhaled toxicants owing to the high efficiency of their respiratory systems, and PTFE toxicosis is known to cause pulmonary edema and hemorrhage in pet birds after exposure to overheated nonstick cookware. In the present case, the bulbs were replaced, and no similar problems subsequently have been noted. This case illustrates the sensitivity of avian species to respiratory toxicants and serves as a reminder that toxicosis can be encountered even in the controlled environment of a laboratory vivarium.I’ve been gradually weaning myself off heat lamp dependency, but still felt inclined to turn the lamps on during the coldest nights (especially this winter, as we’ve had several cold snaps of 30 to 40 degrees below zero.)Above all these uses, heat lamps are extremely well known as a means to care for animals, especially during the colder seasons. Cages and tanks for pet and lab animals, reptiles, insects, and amphibians are often covered with a heat lamp. Heat lamps are a well-know way used to prod animal mating.Turtles are cold-blooded or ectothermic, meaning they assume the temperature of their environment. Environmental temperature determines the activity of your Red-eared Slider. They slow down in cooler temperatures. A heat source is necessary for all reptiles. Besides the water temperature (described above), it is important to manage the basking area temperature. An inexpensive way to do this is to supply a focal heat source using a 100-watt incandescent bulb with a reflector hood; you can purchase other types of heat lamps or ceramic heating elements at specialty pet stores. Use these heat sources as directed. Your heat source should be placed OUTSIDE and above one end of the aquarium over the basking or dry area such that there is no direct contact to the water and more importantly, to the animal, thus avoiding any risk of accidental burning. The basking area temperature (as determined by a thermometer) should be 75º-88º F (24º-31º C). The basking area should have a gradient of temperature such that the turtle can choose a suitable temperature. At night, when sleeping, extra heat and light are not necessary as long as the temperature remains around 65 o - 70 o F (18 o -24 o C). You must provide your Red-eared Slider with a "night time". In the wild the nighttime temperatures usually fall gradually. Sustained lower temperatures may cause the turtle to stop feeding, and will predispose it to illness or infections.